We're riding through a town of six to seven story high rises with laundry
hanging from almost all the windows. The street is narrow and made of
foot square pavers. People are shouting at each other from the balconies,
from the streets and from the cars. Ahead of us two cars going in
opposite directions pass a double parked car while a motorscooter
squeezes between them. Welcome to bicycling in Southern Italy.
After a day of riding from Pompei to Sorrento it has become quite clear
that all rules of the road, at least the ones we recognize, are
considered to be very loose suggestions by Italian car drivers.
Motorscooter drivers don't even consider the suggestions. They are
everywhere, darting in and out, passing into oncoming traffic around
curves and everybody treats it as normal. The rules for parking, if there
are any, must come from a different dimension. Cars are double parked,
angle parking and parallel parking mix in the same block, busses stop in
the middle of the road to let passengers off and delivery trucks block
the whole road while the drivers delivers their goods. The oddest part of
it all is that it somehow manages to work. Perhaps traffic doesn't flow
quite as quickly as in the US but then the US doesn't have the maze of
small little roads that Italy has either.
You've probably figured out by now that we've left Spain and are in
Italy. After a couple of days visiting the ruins and churches of Rome we
headed south to visit, you guessed it, more ruins. This time it was the
quite remarkable ruins of Pompei. I was surprised by the that had been
excavated. Pompei easily outsized Ronan.
From Pompei we headed out onto the Sorrentine Peninsula. The blue waters
of the Gulf of Napoli to our right, the mountains of the peninsula to our
right and little villages scattered everywhere. Quite picturesque.
Our second day we went on a day ride from Sorrento to the tip of the
peninsula. The ride started by climbing 1200' to the spine of the
peninsula. We rode through olive, lemon and orange groves and at the tope
had an amazing view off the end of the peninsula towards the isle of Capri.
Lots of budding and flowering as spring is underway here. After the climb
we had a long downhill to a coastal, well still several hundred feet up
but closer to the coast, road. Nice views of the water, Capri and Ischia
with Naples and Vesuvious off in the distance. Easy day - only 30km and
we were back in a cafe in a sunny square in Sorrento by 1:30.
The next day we strapped our luggage back on the bikes and headed up and
over the peninsula to the Amalfi coast. This side of the peninsula was
even more dramatic than the Sorrento side. Picture the Going to the Sun
road merged with the Big Sur coast road and you're getting close. Most of
the time we rode along a road that was more of a bridge leaning against
the mountain side. On the left was an almost vertical cliff on the right
was a shear drop to the gulf. Sometimes the road was even cantilevered
out over the gulf.
We finished our southern Italy experience by visiting yet more ruins.
This time the temples of Paestum, easily the best preserved Greek temples
I've seen. We also had Neapolitan pizza at World Champion's pizzeria in
Salerno.
Since we've traveled north to Tuscany where we met Stacey's Mom and
Sister and spent a week visiting the hill towns around Siena and staying
in a lovely agriturismo named Spannocchia. From there we biked north to
Pisa and one of Erich's must sees. The next day we roe to Firenze
(Florence) and we can all verify that it is a long way, 104km. To top it
off we hit rush hour traffic going into town. We easily made better time
than the cars but it was harrowing. A day of museums, churches and Gelato
in Florence and it was back in the saddle. After four days of bicycling
up the Arno river to the Canal Maestro della Chiana over some low hills
to Lago Trasimeno and a stiff final climb we arrived here in Perugia.