It was interesting how we did and did not recall parts of the trip, as we followed almost exactly the same route as before. We would ride along, saying, oh yeah, I remember this part, or, wow, I don't remember this at all. And since we were here in 2000, Slovakia and Hungary have both joined the European Union, which makes some very apparent differences in costs (everything was way more expensive), development (alot of new construction going on), relative ease of border crossings, and the amount and types of material good available. So....
Vienna to Petronell-Carnuntum, 56 km. We rode out of Vienna on the north side of the Danube, past the FKK or nudist area, past the area on which "grill zone" is painted on the asphalt path and folks were grilling meat to their heart's content, past numerous beer shacks, and past the sports area. We also rode past some sort of fireman's competition, where teams of firemen were competing laying out and connecting hoses on a big field. It was plenty hot, and their warm coats and metal hats with pointy tops added to the red faces of the competitors. I'm thinking of ecommending the metal pointy hats to the Ronan Fire Department.
We were riding into a stiff headwind, and it was hot, and after what seemed like an eternity of pedaling through the woods lining the Danube we came to a big bridge leading to the town of Hainberg, still in Austria. Up river we cycled to a very small campground that was actually the grassy side yard of the local tennis club. Warm showers and cold beers later, we were tired and ready for sleep.
Petronell to Bratislava 32 km. Border crossings just aren't what they used to be in the new EU countries. Eight years ago we had to have our passports checked on both sides of the Austria/Slovakian border, but this time there was no one at the station. We continued in to Bratislava (passing the pizza restaurant where we had stayed overnight eight years ago).
After finding a nice apartment near the river, we walked around the small historical part of the city, which seemed a little more prosperous and cleaned up than it did during our last visit.
Bratislava to Dunajska Streda, 70 km. On down the Danube on a multi use path along the river. The first ten miles or so there were many Bratislavans roller blading in rather skimpy clothing - well, it was a very warm day. We stopped at a beer stand where Tom and Kelly got to gawk at the girls in bikinis. Then, on down the river in a quieter section, past an oxbow lake. This is a very pretty section of cyclepath despite the presence of the ecological damage caused by Gabickova Dam and the concrete banks lining the Danube. We stopped at a small town just off the cycle path, and remembered that the last time we went in that same store there were a couple of cabbages, some bread, and some sausages and water on the shelves. This time there was a fairly well stocked Coop market. We camped at a pretty despicable and overpriced campground in Dunajska Strega, as there aren't many options around here.
Dunajksa Streda to Komarom, 83 km. And on down the river, along cycle path and busy highway, to the bridge from Komarom, Slovakia, to Komarno, Hungary. Not much of note on this section, as it is mostly flat and uninspiring. But the self-nominated campground hostess, an elderly German woman, brought us freshly brewed coffee in the morning n a tray complete with sugar and cream. She was amazingly kind to Erich and Shea, as well, giving them candy bars and letting them sit under her canopy while it rained. Some other Germans and Belgian couple loaned us a table and chairs to eat at...I don't know how we can ever possibly repay the many kindnesses we have been shown.
Komarom to Eztergom, 63 km. We started the day by returning to the Slovakian side of the Danube, where we toured around Komarno, a surprisingly interesting town. We ended up with a personal tour of the fortress in Komarno, which at the time it was built in the was the biggest and most modern military fortification in Central Europe. Our English-speaking guide walked us though the fortress and told stories of the various occupants. It was really interesting, as the fort had originally been built in the 1500s, and had included a big palace, which was then demolished as the fortress was expanded and remodeled. When the Russians occupied Slovakia in the 1950s and 1960s, 8000 soldiers were housed in the former barracks in pretty cramped conditions, while the officers lived out in the town in relative luxury. Our tour guide, who had grown up in the area, said the soldiers did not interact with the community at all. A huge amount of ammunition was stored in the old horse stables, and the fort was repainted with various Russian motifs and pictures of Russian soldiers, etc, which are still partially visible. When the Russians left in the early 1990's, about 200 Slovak soldiers were housed in a different building on the grounds, but the fortress was now in great disrepair and basically falling down, so much so that you have to tour with a guide to avoid the dangerous places. It was so interesting to hear first hand about the Russian occupation and exit, and then discuss this tume period with our children. The visit highlighted the many, many changes that Slovakia has experienced in a generation.
After the tour we headed on down following the marked Danube route to Eztergom, which has a castle high on a hill over the Danube bend.
Eztergom to Domos, 21 km, and the next day Domos to Szentendre, 33 km. The cycle route took us out on Szenendre Island via ferry, a funny old ferry with a boat lashed via metal cable to a small barge. The strawberry season was on, and after riding by several stands, the odor of fresh strawberries finally pulled us over. There was a smaall stand with a grama in head scarf and black wool skirt and rubber boots selling cherries and strawberries. Through sign language and a litle German she quoted us a price for small and large baskets of each. The son or son-in-law brought over a basket of freshly picked strawberries and cherries and gave us all some to sample. Delicious! Seriously delicious! We decided on a large strawberry box and a small bag of cherries, and gave her what we thought was the right amount of money. The grama kept asking for more, saying something in Hungarian and holding out 300 forints and shaking them at us. Her ? daughter came over and got in on the conversation, speaking rapidly in Hungarian and pointing to various baskets and the money box. The son-in-law shrugged his shoulders, smiled, and stayed in the background seeming to enjoy the situation. Finally after a lengthy discussion in three languages, pantomime, and writing down various costs and money that had exchanged hands, the grama and daughter said loudly, "OK!" and the son-in-law said "OK!" and we all laughed and said "OK!" and all was well.
After another ferry ride across the river we reached the town of Szentendre and our campground at about the same time as it started raining in great gobs. At the campground we cooked under a small shelter with ping pong tables. Ominous puddles started forming all over the grounds as the rain continued to fall through most of the night.
The next day we took a rest day in Szentendre, where we slept late, mosied around town, ate goulasch at a restaurant on the main square, and did some shopping. The town seemed more touristy than last time we were here. Heavy rain fell at times during the night, so we woke up to find the puddle near our tent had expanded greatly, and was starting to get close to the tent. Time to leave...
Szentendre to Budapest, 12 km plus a train ride. We decided to take the train in to Budapest to save some time and because it was still raining. We rented an apartment in Budapest - quite lovely, with two bedrooms and a nice kitchen/living room area. What luxury! We spent the next day touring all of the usual Budapest sights ,including going back to Gerbeaud's for Dobos Torte. The paliament and ther buildings alng the Danube are magnificent, and the art deco buildings in Pest were really great. See the picture of the happy Trickel-Sherwin family in Budapest at the castle overlooking the Danube and parliament building.
And, more from on down the road.
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