But first, we had to get to Slovenia from Croatia, which was a small saga unto itself. We wanted to take a train or bus from Rijeka, Croatia, to Ljubjana, the capitol city of Slovenia, both to save time and because the ride was a long uphill ride. A tourist agent in Croatia called the train station for us, and we were told, no bikes on the train. The tourist agent and the customer in the office recommended a bus, saying buses would often transport bicycles.
We got up early on Sunday morning to ride the coast highway from Krk, crossing the new bridge to the mainland. We hoped there would not be too much traffic on Sunday, as this is a major north-south highway. Traffic was pretty steady, as was the uphill grade and the wind was gusting. We passed some indutrial areas and one cute town and then were in town fairly easily - about 20 km.
But, in Rijeka we were informed by a fairly unhelpful and haughty bus station attendant that there is no bus to Ljubjana. We hemmed and hawed about whether to just cycle, and decided to try the train station. There, the ticket agent told us the conductor sells tickets for bicycles. We bought people tickets and went out to the platform, where the Slovenian cycletouring couple we had met the day before were loading their bikes into the front compartment of a small train. We went to the rear and started loading our bikes there, and when the conductor arrived, he nodded and informed us that we would pay 20 kuna per bike, about US 4.50. We put all of our bags in a compartment, and asked if that was OK because it was labeled first class. The conductor, who spoke no English, put the bicycle fee in his pocket, and motioned for us to stay there. So far, so good.
At the Croatia-Slovenia border the train stopped, and border agents from both countries walked the train looking at passports. Then a Slovenian train conductor got on, and it was immediately obvious that he wasn't happy with the bicycle situation, as he looked at me and said something in Slovenian, with a dour look on his face. In fact, he reminded me of Barney Fife, from Andy of Mayberry...not to date myself! I said, "Excuse me?" and he said emphatically,"Problem. In Slovenia don't do this." He then Shhok his head, looked glum, collected Euro 2.69 for each bike, issued bike tickets, and indicated with a pointed finger and rolling eyes that we should move to a second class section of the train, even though there was no one in first class and there was no obvious difference in the sections. We carried all the gear down two cars to second class, noting that the Slovenian couple was no longer on the train. The train moved on, and the conductor remained peeved at us, with dour looks and much head shaking until we arrived in Ljubjana about an hour later. Oh well, we were there.
Ljubjana is a very nice city, with a large historical center set along a river. The snow-covered Slovenian Alps are visible from the city, forming a backdrop for the cathedral, hilltop castle, and the many art nouveau buildings. The picture is of the doors to the cathedral. We ate lunch at a borek stand - a kind of meat or cheese/spinach pastry, cheap. There was alot more to see but we caught the bus back to the campground to get organized with the route across Slovenia.
Note to other cycletourists: apparently the train cars that hold bicycles are not added until about the first of June. Until then, it is hit or miss whether or not you are allowed to take bikes on the trains. I don't know when they take those cars off the system in the fall.
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